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Why Is Paris Considered One Of The Most Romantic Cities In The World?
Fractional Ownership
Norm Goldman, Editor of Sketchandtravel and Bookpleasures is excited to have
as a guest, world- wide Paris expert, Thirza Vallois. Thirza is the author of
the three volumes of "Around and About Paris", and another excellent book,"
Romantic Paris". Thirza has lived in Paris for the past 40 years and holds
several post-graduate degrees from La Sorbonne. She contributes
to television and radio and has appeared on PBS, BBC, The Travel
Channel, Discovery, CNN, The French Cultural Channel, among
others. She also writes for The Financial Times, United
Airlines' Hemispheres, Condé Nast Traveller, among others.
She is the author of Three Perfect Days in Paris, aired as a
film on all United Airlines international flights and on
television throughout the world. The article has won her the
first award of NATJA (the North American Travel Journalists'
Association). Thirza has also contributed the Paris entry
of the latest edition of The Encarta Encyclopaedia. Thirza
is also an expert on the Aveyron area in southern France. During
the past several years she has devoted much of her time to
exploring and studying this region of France. She is now
completing a new book on this last hidden region of France, to
be published in 2006. Thirza has also informed me that she
has been travelling extensively in the USA, especially to
California, about which she has written a couple of articles,
with more to follow Today, Thirza will be discussing with
us why Paris is so romantic? Good day Thirza and thank you
for accepting to be interviewed by sketchandtravel.com and
bookpleasures.com. Norm: Thirza, could you tell us
something about yourself, how you started as a travel author and
writer, how many travel books have your written, and why have
you chosen to write about Paris? Thirza: A long time
ago, when I was still a child, and travelling was still the
privilege of the "happy enlightened few", I happened to be
blessed with an exceptional mother who believed that the best
school was life itself and that the best way to embrace life was
by travelling. My exposure therefore started at a very
young age, as did my love for writing, through which I expressed
myself the way one does through painting, singing, playing an
instrument, dancing.... I never intended to become a writer, it
was just part of me. And I never chose to write about Paris. It
just happened, and for two specific reasons looking back with
hindsight. Being a savvy traveller, it upset me to see how
most visitors to Paris (and any other place), do it the wrong
way, using directory-like guidebooks that make them go through
all the endless lists of touristy "musts", rather than point
them to the "real" place, which is the city itself. It is only
through an in-depth exploration and the understanding of a place
that one can make the most of one's visit, and that's what my
books "Around and About Paris" are all about. Like all
forms of self-expression, there is always an element of therapy
behind the motivation, and I certainly needed to do my own
therapy regarding Paris when the idea of writing about Paris
began to gestate in my mind, back in the 1980s. Paris has
changed dramatically since, but in those days it was an
exasperating place, inhabited by very difficult people, to say
the least, and my feelings for it were far from the phony "I
love Paris in the spring time" picture postcard cultivated by
Hollywood. It was really a love and hate passion, and I needed
to understand my own heart, which could only happen through
understanding the city. It is the combination of the above
that gave birth to my 3-volume series, "Around and About Paris".
As for "Romantic Paris", it was their natural extension in a
way. Once I provided my reader with all the meaty stuff, it was
time to relax, enjoy and feast, and who does it better than
lovers? It was a book written for lovers, past, present, and
future, for whom Paris, more than any other city I can think of,
has been designed by the gods. This also answers your other
question. I have so far written four books on Paris. I have
actually written a fifth book on Paris, targeting children, but
have never pursued its publication (to my regret), having
embarked on my new project, my book on the Aveyron which is now
more than two thirds done. Norm: Can you explain to
our audience why Paris is among the top romantic venues in the
world? Thirza: Everyone asks me this same question,
on every interview. The answer I give is always the same, and
best resumed in the introduction to "Romantic Paris". Rather
than paraphrase, let me quote directly from my book: "For
decades I tried to figure out why Paris is shrouded in such
mystique. Granted, walks at night along the Seine are
enchanting, but that alone cannot explain why the very mention
of Paris had always conjured up tales of romance, well before it
was blessed with gas or electricity, well before its exquisitely
lit street-corners were replicated the world over in
black-and-white print. After all, medieval Paris was a dark den
of filth, reeking with nauseous stench, and the two sinister
prison fortresses that jutted out of its skyline could hardly
have been conducive to romance. Not to mention the 32 rotting
corpses dangling in the offing when the royal gallows was used
to full capacity. Yet the myth has been perpetuated for a good
thousand years. I racked my brains, I dug into the past, I
travelled into my own psyche looking for an answer, but I came
back empty-handed. There simply is no answer. There lies the
beauty of the enigma. Paris is poetry, Paris is mystery, Paris
is beauty-an exasperating decoy that never quite delivers, all
the more compelling for its imperfection, the archetypal
reservoir of all our passions...." Norm: If you had
to choose six unique romantic venues in Paris, where would they
be and why? Thirza: Very tough question, and it
sometimes depends on the season or time of day or night, because
"romantic" implies seclusion. *Definitely the two western
tips of the two central islands, Ile de la Cité and Ile
Saint-Louis, but down the steps, at water level, and in the case
of Ile Saint-Louis, preferably after dark. *The tiny place
de Fürstemberg, near the church of Saint-Germain-des-Prés: it is
a rare jewel after dark, but is also quite heavenly in the
morning, when one can meanwhile take in the delightful little
Delacroix Museum. *Place Dauphine, on the western side of
Ile de la Cité, also preferably after dark. *Buttes
Chaumont, which has all the ingredients of a Brahms symphony
that would have appealed to the likes of Lord Byron: a grotto, a
dramatic waterfall, a lake with weeping willows, sheer cliffs
topped by a Temple de l'Amour-what better place for a lovers'
kiss with eastern Paris spread like a carpet at your feet!
* Palais Royal (the home of writer Colette and Jean Cocteau), in
early morning, before the arrival of the crowds, or at night
time, after they have departed. * Montmartre, especially
on the little frequented side streets, again in the early hours
of the morning, or after dark. Norm: Could you
describe to our audience six unique wedding venues in Paris to
celebrate a marriage, and explain why you would consider these
venues to be most unique? Thirza: Once more the
choice is tough, so I am trying to be as eclectic as I can, to
match people's different tastes. *Without any shadow of
doubt, my first choice would go to a cruise boat on the river
Seine. These come in different categories and different price
ranges, my favourite fleet being "Les Yachts de Paris". Nothing
equals in terms of urban beauty and glamour the city's river
views, even more so when seen from the water. Try to prolong
your festivities into the night so as to enjoy the splendour of
the floodlighting. Les Yachts de Paris *At a price, every
monument of Paris is for hire, even the Château of Versailles.
If I were to hire one of them (or just part of one) for my
wedding, I would probably go for the Jacquemart-André Museum,
because as the one-time home of the famous art collectors
Edouard André and Nélie Jacquemart, it has a private feel,to a
certain extent, despite its palatial glamour, which makes it an
ideal venue for a wedding occasion. The couple's fabulous art
collection is on permanent display on the magnificent premises
of the museum. Musée Jacquemart-André *Countrified weddings are always
appealing, and the Bois de Boulogne is as countrified as you can
get within the boundaries of Paris. Le Pré Catelan offers luxury
and refinement amidst beautiful green surroundings, combined
with the the renowned Le Nôtre's top-quality catering. Le
Pré Catelan *If you wish to have it countrified
while staying in central Paris, you can opt for the discreet
magnificence of the peach-coloured Laurent, in the lower gardens
of the Champs-Elysées, and still enjoy the leafy surroundings of
one of the city's most prestigious neighbourhoods (the
presidential residence is across the street). Make sure to hire
a dining room that comes with a terrace. Le Laurent *There was
once an excellent film by Chabrol, Le charme discret de la
bourgeoisie. That kind of charm, which was first and foremost
that of the old aristocracy, was beautifully captured by Marcel
Proust. It still lingers on Faubourg Saint Germain in the 7th
arrondissement, notably in the 18th century townhouse, now the
home of the celebrated Ecole Polytechnique alumni, where many of
the nation's creme de la creme elite were trained. La
Maison des Polytechniciens *The avenue d'Iéna, in the plush
neighbourhood of the 16th arrondissement, is home to a
magnificent town mansion from the late 19th century, decorated
in traditional, period French style and overlooking a beautiful
garden. Ideal for a wedding in grand style. La Maison des
Arts et Métiers Norm: If you are planning to have a
destination wedding in Paris, how far in advance should you
prepare for the wedding, and where would you go to find out
about the legal requirements? Thirza: There is a
strict separation between state and church in France (see the
recent headlines about the Islamic veil.....). This is important
to understand because only civil marriage is recognised by
French law. It is celebrated by the Mayor of the arrondissement
where one of the spouses resides, and the ceremony takes place
in the Salle de Marriage of the Mairie of that same
arrondissement. There is a legal procedure to go by and you will
need to seek legal advice for that. If you are considering a
civil marriage in France, a lawyer is the person to consult,
obviously (although I do know how it works, this is not the
right forum to expand on administrative issues). You may also
require the service of a notaire, should you be dealing with
property issues. Your lawyer can refer you to a notaire. On the
other hand, you don't need to be a French resident for the
celebration of your religious or non-religious ceremony, nor do
you need any legal advice for that. However, you should
definitely prepare for it as early as possible because, as they
say, "the early bird catches the prey". Certainly months ahead,
if not a year, should you plan your wedding to take place in
spring or early summer. Norm: If you had to choose
three of the most romantic restaurants in Paris, which ones
would you choose and why? Thirza: * If by romantic
we imply secluded cosiness which is what lovers usually seek,
and since I haven't yet focused on winter, the Coupe Chou comes
first to my mind, located in an ancient medieval house in the
Latin Quarter, a few steps away from the Sorbonne. It's all dark
nooks and crannies, which are graced with glowing log fires. If
only it could snow more often in Paris than it does these days!
It would then be altogether fit for a fairy tale. As an extra
bonus, this is a medium-range restaurant pricewise. Le
Coupe-Chou
* Le Beauvilliers in Montmartre, on the other hand, is a pricy
place, but as good as it comes and cheaper than others that fall
into that category. Here you step into the romantic splendour of
the Second Empire in the heart of real Montmartre, just a few
minutes'walk from the differently (yet equally) romantic and
cottagy Lapin Agile cabaret, where I would head after dinner,
for a night filled with old French songs, sketches and hearty
laughter. Le Beauvilliers * Lapérouse, a pricy place too, cannot
be overlooked either, its scintillating setting having been the
rendezvous of Venus's protegés. There is even a private
boudoir-lounge where the two of you can dine alone undisturbed.
It comes with elaborate, dainty decorations and is named La
Belle Otero after the famous, fiery courtesan. If you are
worried for your good reputation, note that France's most
honoured members of literati also dined here regularly, Victor
Hugo, Alexandre Dumas, George Sand among them. Remember that the
French have a sophisticated, unpuritanical approach to love.
Lapérouse, Norm: If a couple were planning to
honeymoon in Paris, and were not sure which area to stay in,
which three areas of the city would you choose and why?
Thirza: Saint-Germain-des-Prés/Luxembourg area, Paris at
its most sophisticated, colourful and arty, lined with
extraordinary boutiques that will be hard to resist. It boasts a
greater number of "hôtels de charme" than any other part of the
city, which speaks for itself, and that's exactly the kind of
hotel a honeymooning couple would choose to stay at, short of
choosing one of the city's luxury hotels. The Marais is
similar in spirit but is less spacious, and doesn't have a park.
It also has several "hôtels de charme", though not quite so many
as Saint-Germain. Ile Saint-Louis because it is a
self-contained miniature of romance, lined with boutiques and
eating places of all sorts, and conveniently located for every
part of Paris. It has four "hôtels de charme" to choose among
and is within a few minutes' walk from both the Marais, on the
Right Bank, and the Latin Quarter on the Left Bank. Norm:
Is Paris a safe city to visit? Thirza: No city and
no place on earth is fullproof. As I am writing this interview
South East Asia is subjected to a deluvian tragedy, all the way
to the eastern shores of Africa. Paris is as safe as a big city
can be, but one should always use one's common sense and avoid
carrying cash and other valuables when going out. Pickpocketing
is rife, and I have been victim to it many a time myself- A
brief moment of distraction and your wallet is gone. Leave all
your valuables in your safe, and carry a photocopy of your
passport rather than the original document. Watch out even at
the airport and hold on to your handbag in all public places
(including your taxi: some delinquents may open the door and
snatch your bag at a traffic light or in a traffic jam. They
often operate on motorcycles and that has happened to me too).
Be sensible but not paranoid. Norm: When is the best
time to visit Paris from the point of view of climate, crowds,
travel deals, etc? Obviously spring time is unique. Good
weather is never guaranteed though, no matter what time of year,
but should the gods be with you, then spring, by definition, is
the season of romance, and an early feel of spring can even be
detected as early as on Valentine's. I personally have a
distaste for July and August, especially from the middle of July
on. Most Parisians are replaced by tourists, often in organised
crowds, and it just isn't it. This can also happen at weekends
during spring because Europeans nowadays are very fond of
weekend city breaks. Fall is a beautiful time of year, often
accompanied by a lingering Indian summer, which the golden
beauty of the trees contribute to enhance. Strange as it
may seem, I find Paris particularly romantic in winter, when the
leafless trees allow you to enjoy the architecture of its
buildings. After dark the city is altogether magical,as its
street lamps don it with an amber light. It can be cold, but all
you have to do is dress accordingly and make the most of the
fact that you are likely to be alone out there and the entire
city will belong to you and your sweetheart, as you stroll
through the streets or by the river into the late hours of the
night. At Christmas time you will also enjoy the festive
decorations, which, it being Paris, tend to be exquisitely
elegant and tasteful. As for travel deals, they are the same all
over the world. Prices shoot up in the summer and plummet in the
low season. Norm: How easy or difficult is it to get
around Paris? Thirza: It is extremely easy to get
around Paris. Public transportation (buses, métro and RER
express trains) is very efficient and many lines run beyond
midnight. Taxis are easily available except on weekend nights.
They also get grabbed into thin air as soon as it starts
raining. However, Paris is regularly disrupted by protest and
other demonstrations (the French thrive on them), which can
paralyse the city, usually from 2:00 pm on, often with no
forewarning. It is therefore good to stay in central Paris so
that you can make your way back to your hotel on foot, should
you experience one of those typically French "happenings".
Norm: Is there anything else that you wish to add about
Romantic Paris that we have not discussed? Thirza:
Most of the recommendations in this interview are on the pricy
side, because we are speaking here of a special event and moment
in your life. My book "Romantic Paris" has pages and pages of
tips and recommendations of things to be done and enjoyed on all
budgets, including low budgets. Paris can truly be enjoyed
romantically on a shoestring. The best of Paris is strolling
through its streets, and that costs little or nothing. I have
designed several romantic walks for you in "Romantic Paris".
That's over and above the scores of walks woven into "Around and
About Paris". Put on your most comfortable footgear and venture
into the city, including in the heart of winter. Soak it all up.
And try, just once, to stay up all night, so that you can enjoy
a sunrise either from the river, or from the foot of the Sacré
Coeur. Thanks once again and best of luck on all of your
future endeavours including your future book on Aveyron.
10, quai Henri
IV, 75004
Tel: 01 44 54 14 70
158, Boulevard
Haussmann, 75008
Bois de Boulogne
Route de Suresnes, 75016
Tel 01 44 14 41 14
41,
avenue Gabriel, 75008
Tel: 01 42 25 00 39
12, rue de Poitiers
75007 Paris
Tél: 01 49 54 74 74
9bis avenue d'Iéna
75116 Paris
Tel: 01
40 69 27 00
9, rue de Lanneau, 75005
Tel: 01 46 33 68 69
52, rue Lamarck, 75018
Tel: 01 42 54 54 42
51, quai des Grands-Augustins, 75006
Tel: 01 43
26 68 04
About the Author
Norm Goldman is Editor of the travel site,
http://www.sketchandtravel.com and the book reviewing site,
http://www.bookpleasures.com.
Norm and his artist wife Lily are a unique husband and wife team in that them meld words with art focusing on romantic and wedding destinations.
You can read Norm's book reviews on Bookpleasures.com and you can read his travel articles together with his wife Lily's art work on Sketchandtravel.com.
Norm and Lily are always open to invitations to visit romantic and wedding destinations in the New England states, Florid ...